Go in peace

Our last day in Israel was spent in Tel Aviv. Lenore and Allen left early for their morning flight but the Mansbach 5 had the full day to spend. We started by walking down Dizengoff. Jodi bought some new sandals and Orly and Jodi found some fun jewelry along the street. Our destination was Dizengoff Center where we were told there was a pool on the roof. After asking puzzled folks in several stores in the mall where it was, Ross finally found his "friend" who gave us directions. Unfortunately, it was really a gym with an exercise pool with folks swimming laps and not really suitable for swim time. Bram was entirely disappointed. The other kids rebounded and we headed over the market at HaCarmel. We gave each kids 40 shekels each to buy whatever they wanted -- as long as they did the negotiation and paying. Orly bought candy and earrings. Bram had his eye on lots of toys made in China but Jodi prevailed on him and he finally got some toy soldiers, a key chain, a little wood alligator and candy. Eli made a big candy purchase but really didn't find anything else. I'd highly recommend the craft market at Nahallat Binyamin right near HaCarmel which is held on Tues and Fridays. 

After market, we headed up to the beach near our hotel, Grand Beach, near the Hilton. Packed with Israelis enjoying a Friday afternoon.  The water was great, the kids stayed in a long time and we ended up being there until almost 6:30. We found the guards who stay in a huge stand set far back from the water barking out commands, telling people to come back in, etc. highly entertaining though we understand little except for the yeladim eem haboogie (kids with boogie boards). Eventually they signed off with Shabbat Shalom though the beach and water stayed pretty full. Quick showers at the locker room there and then it was time to pick up our bags at the hotel for the trip to the airport. We had a short amount of time so we walked over to the Israeli version of Whole Foods and had a little picnic on a bench outside the store. Then it was off to the airport for our nightflight back to Atlanta. Happy to be home but missing the good times and good feelings of being in Israel!

Along the Coast

Leaving Vered Hagalil was not easy. Not only was it a beautiful spot but we also were not all that practiced at making sure we had everything. It took two times returning to the ranch once we departed (once because Eli had his room key, the second time because Orly left her favorite sweater at breakfast) to get underway. Our first stop was in Akko on the Mediterranean. This was our first glimpse of the sea. Very very beautiful. Like many other spots in Israel, Akko has a long history of multiple cultures living sometimes peacefully and often conflicting. In Akko, the Crusaders had a big influence on the city. We focused mainly on walking through the old part of the city. In the market, Ross bought some saffron and date honey. Then we went through a recently discovered tunnel under the city.

From Akko, we drove through Haifa, saw the Bajai gardens (greatly expanded since the Lox family trip in the 80s). Ikey wanted to do something for the kids so we stopped at some 1,000,000+ year old caves where one of the oldest human skeletons has been found.  Quick lunch of shwarma and then onto Caesarea.  Had I known how much they now have at Caesarea, I definitely would have spent a half day there for sure, at least. There are two great educational but not cheesey films that we all enjoyed.  There are also all kinds of shops, restaurants and a really pretty beach you can swim at. Since we didn't have time for it all, we got some ice cream and then walked along the coast, seeing the Hippodrome (which Orly loved) and then the Roman ampitheater. The kids had fun pretending to be actors in the Roman days. They must have been excited for our next stop -- Tel Aviv -- because soon the van was filled with singing in the back seats serenading us in our final leg with Ikey. Arriving in Tel Aviv, at the Melody Hotel which I would highly recommend -- it was time to say goodbye to Ikey. We'll miss his endless stories and the extreme pride he -- like so many Israelis -- have in their country. And we'll even miss being told when we are asking dumb questions or when he's told us something before, once or even twice!  In Tel Aviv, we quickly went up to the hotel's roof top terrace to watch the sunset then walked over to a restaurant called Jeremiah in a really nice residential neighborhood. 

Israeli bees, Golan Heights

Catching up a bit on the blog. Not writing in real time but wanted to get everything down before we settle into home routines. Another full day of touring with our first stop - a special request by Ross to see Kibbutz Shamir where they have a fairly extensive bee keeping operation.  We had a lovely explanation by a woman there who was very impressed when Orly found the queen bee in their demonstration box in less than a second! Ross focused on the details but we all learned a lot and emerged with lots of fun honey and honey infused beauty products.

Next stop at Tel Dan, a natural park in the far north of Israel packed with Israeli and Arab schoolkids. It's a real attraction in Israel especially the fresh cool water wading area. It was a hot day so everyone enjoyed the refreshing wet break but it was especially fun to watch the expressions on the visiting schoolkids' faces as they experienced this treat. Lunch at Kibbutz Dan and then a big driving loop up through the Golan Heights stopping at a military outpost overlooking Syria that is not being actively used but was important during the six day war. Since it is high up there is a coffee shop there called Coffee Anan (Coffee in the Clouds) but people think it's funny because it sounds like Kofi Anan.

Kids eager again to get back to the ranch for more swimming. Big news of the day was that Bram kept himself afloat and did some real swimming strokes for the first time. He was so excited he wanted to stay at the ranch until the next day when the pool opened again. Unfortunately, it was time to leave this very pretty place and head over to the coast and down to Tel Aviv.

Lounging at the ranch

The Mansbach side of the family requested a slow day which meant that we slept later, enjoyed our first Israeli buffet breakfast and sent Lenore and Allen off to Safed and Rosh Pina with Ikey. Back at the ranch, Jodi, Orly and Eli went on a great horseback ride with our guide Soof along the banks of the Kinneret while Ross and Bram played chess. By the time we returned from the ride and had a snack, Ikey and the grandparents had returned and picked us up to visit Golan Heights Winery (makers of Yarden, Gamla and Golan) where there was a cute movie, quick tour and great wine tasting. Orly, Eli and Bram fully participated in the wine tasting showing a definite preference for the dessert wine, a moscato type, which they gulped down. Everyone was happy to be back at the ranch early. The kids spent two full hours in the pool and then we sat under the canopied area for evening backgammon, watched a beautiful sunset and had another good dinner here including American favorites chicken wings and chicken in the basket along with a bottle of Gamla Pinot Noir. The evening ended on the late side with Orly falling asleep, Bram shining everyone's shoes and Eli and Ross playing one last round of backgammon.

To the hills

We are sad to leave Jerusalem but ready for our next adventure. Today we came to Vered Hagalil, a ranch north of the Sea of Galilee. Before leaving Jerusalem we stopped at the new Herzl museum with a multi media experience describing Herzl's life and the founding of the state of Israel. Cheesy but really good explanation for all ages. Then it was a long drive (by Israeli standards) maybe an hour and a half to Bet Shean to view the ruins there. Ikey spared us from standing too long in the sun there and gave us a quick overview -- amphitheater and an especially well preserved bath house. Very cool. Next stop-- the kosher McDonalds for lunch. McRoyal for Jodi. What a treat. A challenge ordering in Hebrew though.

Our next stop was to Gan HaShlosha, a place that Ross and Jodi had been to during our trip in 1994 and requested that we return to. It was more beautiful than we remembered -- a beautiful series of three big pools with perfectly clear water and 26-28 degree celsius water. Amazing. We loved lounging in the pools and swimming. Ross and Eli jumped off a big cliff. Glad we did not see.

From there we came straight to Vered Hagalil, a horse ranch north of the Sea of Galilee. After some room shuffling (Lenore and Allen ended up with a lovely room with a view of the sea. THe Mansbach side of the family was convinced by Orly -- and disgruntled management -- that a view of the riding ring is a desirable thing. According to Orly, a ranch shouldn't be nice and the smell of horses when you wake up is primo). Nevertheless, we settled in and had a good dinner and off to a good night's sleep.